Bullion Canyon: the Tushar Mountains' Canyon of Gold

It’s forgivable that most people traveling through Beaver have never noticed the gradually rising Tushar Mountains east of town. Despite several lofty 12,ooo-foot peaks, the Tushars are remarkably unimpressive from the freeway. But for those who have ventured deep into her canyons and climbed her cloud-tickling peaks, there are few parallels in the southwestern quadrant of the state.

Ranked next to the Uintah and La Sal Mountains, the obscure Tushars are Utah’s third highest range. ATV enthusiasts in Piute and Beaver Counties have been well aware of this alpine paradise for years and it’s just a matter of time until other outdoor enthusiasts discover all this range has to offer.

Bullion Canyon, on the east side of the range, showcases many of the things that make the Tushars a unique adventure destination: dizzyingly high peaks, odd-colored volcanic rocks (varying from purple to red to yellow), and a chance to view majestic mountain goats. Setting Bullion Canyon apart however, are the abundant well-preserved relics attesting to the storied mining history of the Tushars.

In 1865, the first prospectors to dip their pans into the frigid moss-lined Pine Creek in Bullion Canyon had little trouble finding stream-worn nuggets of gold. As they continued to prospect up canyon, in search of the gold’s source, they noticed a circular stone-ground depression atop of a large boulder next to the creek – clear evidence that these adventurous miners were not the first to discover the riches of Bullion Canyon. Part of a Spanish arrastra, gold-rich ore was placed in the depression and large stones would be drug over the top, grinding the ore into a fine powder. This crude milling process was the first step in separating the precious metal from the rock. This arrastra, which was weather-worn and full of lichens in 1865, is a testament to a Spanish presence in present-day Utah long before the arrival of American explorers and settlers.

The Ohio Mining District was organized in 1868 and its largest mining camp, Bullion City, reached a peak population of 1651 in 1880. The population declined sharply as the richest veins were mined out, but the town was continuously occupied until the Bully Boy Mill closed for good in 1938. This longevity, by western standards, has resulted in a number of well-preserved dwellings, infrastructure, and tools that help one get an authentic feel for what life was like for miners in this bygone era.

Accessed from Marysvale, Bullion Canyon is most often explored by ATV or automobile, but the canyon road’s gentle grade and smooth gravel surface is equally enjoyable on a mountain bike. Near the canyon’s mouth, stop at a restored ore car on the north side of the road and pick up a pamphlet that describes the various stops on the self-guided “Canyon of Gold Tour.” Numbered signposts along the canyon mark the locations of an abandoned toll road, the Dalton Mill, the Spanish arrastra, and other historic sites.

After crossing the creek on a bridge, the tour culminates at a large flat occupied by former Bullion and Webster Cities. Here, the density of interesting things to see rises significantly and you risk missing some hidden gems unless you park and venture out on foot or bike. Highlights to look for are several miners' cabins, the Bully Boy Mill which is nearly dwarfed by tall aspen, and Miners' Park - an informative outdoor museum full of artifacts from Bullion Canyon's glory days as a major gold producer.

Equally interesting sites can be found on the north side of the canyon by crossing back over the bridge and locating the Bullion Falls Trail that is open to ATV, bicycle, horse, or foot traffic.

Along the trail you'll see old cabins in various states of dilapidation. Angles between floor, ceiling, and walls - no longer square - appear to become more acute with every passing minute as gravity nears inevitable victory.





About 1 mile from the bridge, enjoy views of the striking Bullion Falls, where Pine Creek plummets 60 feet down a mossy ledge of volcanic rock.



Want to see more of the Tushar Mountains? For an incredibly scenic loop, turn south onto Forest Service Road 126 just above the bridge. Gaining elevation through a series of long switchbacks, views become increasingly more expansive and finally infinite as you reach a high pass on the eastern shoulder of 11,757-foot-high Mount Brigham. Descending into Cottonwood Canyon, the intrepid traveler may find more signs of the Tushars' mining legacy. The road out of Cottonwood Canyon joins U.S. 89, where 3.5 more road miles take you back to Marysvale. ATVs, not allowed on the highway, must cross the the highway and follow dirt roads that parallel the Sevier River back to town.





This is definitely ATV country, but I was perfectly content on my mountain bike, and every passing ATV rider was extremely friendly and courteous. A group of riders even cheered me on as I crested the 11,200-foot summit, and before I knew it, we were swapping Bullion Canyon adventure tales over sandwiches and drinks from their cooler. All agreed that the Tushar Mountains are one of the best kept secrets in southwestern Utah.










If You Go:
National Geographic Map 708, "Paiute ATV Trail," covers the Bullion and Cottonwood Canyons area. Detailed travel maps may also be downloaded for free from the Dixie National Forest website (www.fs.fed.us/r4/fishlake/maps/index.shtml).