My dear wife, in her infinite wisdom, arranged for me to fly alone into Kauai nearly a full day early before meeting her and friends for a Hawaiian vacation. My task: get in an extended adventure of my choosing so I could enjoy a relaxing vacation the remainder of the week.
It didn't take long to pinpoint the perfect adventure: the Kalalau Trail along the Na Pali Coast. This trail has emerged as one of the most-sought-out backpacking destinations in the world. The 11-mile (22 round trip) trail accesses some of the most formidable yet beautiful terrain you'll ever see. 4000-foot cliffs covered in green fuzz and cloaked in clouds, ubiquitous ribbon-like waterfalls, tangled jungles, and white-sand beaches bounded by wave-battered sea cliffs make the Kalalau Trail unforgettable. And the scene surrounding the campground at trail's end truly is a slice of heaven on earth. Note to self: next time you make it out this way, spend a minimum of one week at this campground, and for heaven's sake, share the experience with your wife!
Adding to the excitement factor, is the fact that the trail has garnered the reputation of being one of the most dangerous trails to play on. The Kalalau Trail rated as one of Backpacker magazine's 10 most dangerous hikes in America and Outside magazine included it as one of the 20 most dangerous hikes in the world. I think the hazard here is a little overblown. Just stay out of the ocean if the surf is high, don't cross the rivers if the water is too high, and watch your step on the narrow parts of the trail, and you're good to go.
I had perfect weather the entire hike. I completed the run, complete with many breaks for photos/ water treatment in less than 8 hours. Even though I had GPS for backup, navigation was not an issue.
Here are the pics:
The Kalalau trail surface varies from boulders to sticky mud to exposed bedrock, but all of it is very much runable.
The rugged Na Pali Coast. I could literally feel the huge waves crashing against the cliffs below. The ocean is particularly angry here during the winter months.
The first two miles of trail to Hanakapiai Beach can be a bit crowded, but beyond that (where your supposed to have a permit) are just sporadic groups of backpackers.
The KalalauTrail traverses wild and deep canyons that beg further exploration.
The secluded Hanakapiai Beach is reached just two miles in. Despite its inviting appearance, strong rip currents have claimed many lives here.
Hala trees and their aerial roots wait to trip up unsuspecting runners along the Kalalau Trail.
Backpackers make their way out onto an exposed ledge above the Pacific.
The Kalalau Trail is not flat. In fact, you'll climb more than 10,000 feet roundtrip -- this elevation gain is similar to the Grand Canyon Rim 2 Rim 2 Rim, and the Kalalau Trail accomplishes that gain in 20 less miles!
Narrow trails carved into cliffs and loose scree fields leave a very small margin of error along the Kalalau Trail.
Poking my way across "Crawler's Ledge".
Descending the Red Hill to Kalalau Beach.
Campsites in paradise at Kalalau Beach.
Westward travel along the Na Pali Coast is blocked by impassable cliffs.
Barefoot beach running along the Na Pali Coast -- does it get any better than this??
Hippie hangout at Kalalau.
Kalalau Falls -- also known as "the shower" if your are camping nearby.
A nap on this comfy-looking hammock was hard to resist!
Thanks Ben. I ended up getting a permit, although I never saw a ranger and I think it's pretty unlikely you would if running this in a day. The permit was only 20 bucks or so and you can purchase it online.
I'm not sure what is done with the revenue from permits, but it would be nice if they could kick the squatters out of Kalalau Valley and improve the overflow parking lot where I saw several people high-center their rental cars on boulders.
Thanks much for sharing this. I happened to be in Kauai last week and came across your story while looking for places to run. When I saw your pictures of the Kalalau trail I naturally couldn't get it off my mind. A permit was required to go beyond the first campsite and already sold out so I ended up running to mile 6 and back. I missed out on the beautiful red sand and bragging rights for passing the crawler's ledge but considering I had forgotten at the hotel all nutrition but a raspberry hammer gel, it was probably best to skip the end as I would not have made it back on my feet. Though deceivingly easy perhaps due to the bountiful and idyllic nature that surrounds it, the trail is very strenuous, especially after the rain. Some parts keep you on your toes... as if to stay alert I kept repeating to myself the words of caution I had read in this post: The narrow trail only leaves a "small margin for error", you bet! I experienced this first-hand by skidding ocean side due to a hidden muddy patch and that definitely threw a chill down my spine. There are parts of the trail that are so lush and overgrown that you don't even see your feet... But overall this was a blast. The scenery is so colorful that I had to filter my pictures to saturation to truly render what it looks like in reality. I'm thankful for getting the inspiration here.
You had that grin the entire trail.
ReplyDeleteVery Nice! How did you navigate the permit requirements?
ReplyDeleteYou have some awesome pictures.. Your aunt Pauline says you should make calendar with them. She would get one.
ReplyDeleteThanks Ben. I ended up getting a permit, although I never saw a ranger and I think it's pretty unlikely you would if running this in a day. The permit was only 20 bucks or so and you can purchase it online.
ReplyDeleteI'm not sure what is done with the revenue from permits, but it would be nice if they could kick the squatters out of Kalalau Valley and improve the overflow parking lot where I saw several people high-center their rental cars on boulders.
Wow...awesome, very nice pictures!!!
ReplyDeleteI like your blog!! ;-)
Great job and photos! I am planning on swimming to Kalalau beach and running the trail back (In June). I noticed the Altra shoes! (my favorites)
ReplyDeleteCan you connect with me. I'm interested in one of your images.
ReplyDeleteThanks much for sharing this. I happened to be in Kauai last week and came across your story while looking for places to run. When I saw your pictures of the Kalalau trail I naturally couldn't get it off my mind. A permit was required to go beyond the first campsite and already sold out so I ended up running to mile 6 and back. I missed out on the beautiful red sand and bragging rights for passing the crawler's ledge but considering I had forgotten at the hotel all nutrition but a raspberry hammer gel, it was probably best to skip the end as I would not have made it back on my feet. Though deceivingly easy perhaps due to the bountiful and idyllic nature that surrounds it, the trail is very strenuous, especially after the rain. Some parts keep you on your toes... as if to stay alert I kept repeating to myself the words of caution I had read in this post: The narrow trail only leaves a "small margin for error", you bet! I experienced this first-hand by skidding ocean side due to a hidden muddy patch and that definitely threw a chill down my spine. There are parts of the trail that are so lush and overgrown that you don't even see your feet... But overall this was a blast. The scenery is so colorful that I had to filter my pictures to saturation to truly render what it looks like in reality. I'm thankful for getting the inspiration here.
ReplyDeleteA couple of questions...
ReplyDeleteWhat time did you head out?
How many hours did it take you to hike the 11 mile trail in total?
My husband and I are thinking of doing the 11 mile trail in a day as well.