Cedar & Sand

Human-Powered Adventures in the West

The Redman Pictograph and Old Fort Pearce

Thursday, March 31, 2011 By TK421 7 Comments
A trip out to Warner Valley near St. George, Utah, has a little bit of everything for the history buff. And the scenery ain't bad either.

Starting nearly 200 million years ago, at least two different species of large dinosaurs tromped around on wet sand, leaving behind some 4oo tracks, now petrified into solid rock, at the Warner Valley Dinosaur Trackway.

Exactly 235 years ago, the Dominguez and Escalante expedition descended a steep, precarious path off of Sand Mountain (red cliffs in picture below) bounding the north side of the valley and passed very near these dinosaur tracks on their way back to Santa Fe.

And in the southern part of the valley are the ruins of old Fort Pearce. The fort was a fortified shelter at a water source along the historic Temple and Honeymoon wagon trails used in the late 1800s. Close to the fort, you can find Puebloan and Anasazi petroglyphs (writings carved or pecked into rock), and at least one outstanding pictograph (writings painted on rock). Some of this art could be several thousands of years old.

That's an impressive amount of history to converge in one little desert valley that is seldom visited today.



I had traversed Warner Valley numerous times for work and play, but somehow I had failed to stop and check out the old fort. A little online research revealed the presence of nearby rock art, making me even more antsy to get out there.

So I set out with my girls and their cousin Ben to see what we could find. I had heard rumors of a huge life-sized human pictograph, and I had even made a previous failed attempt to locate it from the west, starting near Little Black Mountain and hiking east toward Fort Pearce along the wash. I was hoping today was my lucky day.

As it turns out, the key to finding the lost Redman pictograph was bringing along the junior explorers.


Both the Honeymoon Trail--used by newlyweds traveling from the St. George Temple to the Mormon settlements in northeastern Arizona--and the Temple Trail--used to haul timber from Mt. Trumball to the then-under-construction St. George Temple--passed by the fort. I recall reading somewhere that it never had a roof.

A faint trail leads downstream from the fort along Fort Pearce Wash to a number of easy-to-find petroglyphs. Much of this trail is undoubtedly part of the original Temple Trail.




As we scanned the rocks and hillside for rock art, I was surprised to find a large number of historic inscriptions dating back to the 1880s, some were carved into the sandstone, others were painted on with wagon axle grease. It's amazing to think that this fading trail was once a major thoroughfare!





After hiking a mile or so, we came to where I suspected the Redman pictograph had to be. As the kids played around on a big jumble of boulders, I climbed up into the surrounding cliffs searching for any hint of red pigment.



I wasn't having any luck with the pictograph, but I did discover several interesting but very faint petroglyphs.



Ghosts, snakes, turtles, amongst other creatures. Even bear tracks.







After searching for nearly an hour, I was ready to throw in the towel yet again. As I scrambled back down the hillside, I heard the kids get all excited, talking about some hidden treasure they had found. Ben held up an old ammo box as he explained its contents being a bunch of random junk. I immediately recognized it as a geocache, and out of curiosity, I looked over its contents, and there it was! The final clue! A rolled up note in the cache gave detailed instructions on how to find the pictograph. At last! A short but steep hike led up to a shallow overhang that has protected the vivid red ochre over the millenia.



It truly is a startling sight.

I was outsmarted by a four and two six-year-olds this day. Now I just need to recruit them to help me find the well-hidden Dancing Redman pictograph of Timpie Valley. I wonder if they'll work for ice cream?


Above: view from the Redman cave.
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Day 2, Part 2: The Wahweap Hoodoos

Tuesday, March 29, 2011 By TK421 3 Comments
From the last day of my B-day trip: Below: Jack Riggs Bench provides a scenic backdrop on the way to the hoodoos. Above: a short hike down Wahweap creek brings you to the best hoodoos. Below: after visiting the hoodoos, I had just enough daylight to see the famous Chinle hills at Paria. Well, I'd say I packed quite a bit into just two days. If I could have just had longer days, I could have fit even more in!
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Day 2: Hackberry Canyon & The Box of the Paria

Monday, March 14, 2011 By TK421 2 Comments
It was well after dark and I was heading east out of Kanab after a long day out on the north rim of the Grand Canyon. The short winter days sure are frustrating-- there's just not enough light in the day. Seeing the Wahweap hoodoos by flashlight wasn't appealing so I began to mentally prepare for the epic hike through Hackberry Canyon that I had planned for the next day. My plans, again, would have to change.

I was supposed to drop off my mountain bike at the mouth of Hackberry Canyon and then drive up Cottonwood Wash Road to the Slickrock Bench trailhead above Round Valley Draw. I was to camp at the trailhead and then get an early start on the 16-17 mile hike down Round Valley, to Hackberry, retrieve my bike, and then pedal the 20+ miles back to my car at Slickrock Bench. A long day for sure. I expected to finish well past sunset, but I was confident I could do it.

My plans were seemingly thwarted as soon as I turned of US89 onto Cottonwood Wash Road. Immediately, I was faced with a sign in the middle of the road claiming that the road was blocked 14 miles ahead by a massive rock slide. Well, 14 miles would get me awfully close to the mouth of Hackberry, but with Cottonwood Road blocked, there was no way to drive to Slickrock Bench without driving on highways all the way through Kanab, Orderville, Bryce Canyon etc. I wasn't up for all that driving so I started scheming up a plan B. In the meantime, I was curious about this rock slide and decided to trip my odometer, go around the sign, and drive until I'd come upon it.

As I headed up the road, I figured if I could make it to the Hackberry trailhead, I could camp there for the night and then the next morning, dayhike up canyon to see the best parts. Then I'd have the rest of the day to dayhike into the Paria Box, and still make it out to the Wahweap Hoodoos in the evening, which I had really been looking forward to.

As I plotted out the day, I watched the miles go by on the odometer-- 13, 14, 15 -- and still no sign of the rock slide. Hmmm... had the BLM messed up on the mileage? Had local ranchers, tired of waiting for the government to clear the road, and bulldozed the slide themselves? Judging from the amount of traffic it appeared the road was getting, I assumed the rock debris had been cleared and the road was indeed open. This of course, meant I could go back to plan A. Except, my legs were feeling some fatigue after the day's adventures, and plan B had really started to sound like the better plan. Besides, there was still a chance a huge boulder was blocking the road somewhere up ahead.

And so I pulled into the Hackberry trailhead, laid back the seat in my Montero, opened the sunroof, and dozed off.

It being early February, I knew Hackberry's stream would be cold. I didn't, however, expect it to be frozen solid!







After walking upstream a 100 yards or so, I realized the stream wasn't quite solid as I could hear flowing water below my feet.



As the sun came up, ice began to melt and it became a game of whether the ice would support each step, or if my foot would crash through the ice and into the frigid water below. My neoprene socks really saved me on this one.





After a couple of miles, the canyon opened up and was bathed in sunlight. The tall and narrow walls of Navajo Sandstone were replaced by rolling hills of colorful Chinle, Moenave, and Kayenta strata.




Above: dinosaur tracks cover this boulder along Hackberry Canyon.






I decided my turn-around point would be the 100-year-old Frank Watson cabin.










Above: water cascades over an ice dam in lower Hackberry Canyon.

I was very impressed with Hackberry Canyon. I still want to do the full loop which includes a few spurs up Stone Donkey Canyon, to Pollock Arch, and to the "Moki house". This lower part of the canyon would also be ideal with small kids, in warmer weather.


Above: looking west toward the mouth of the Paria River where it emerges from the Cockscomb Ridge. This is also known as "The Box".

Next up, was short drive to "The Box" trailhead on the Paria.

It's a short stroll along the sandy banks of the Paria before you enter into a moderately deep canyon carved into the Cockscomb.

Above: The upturned ridge of rock called the Cockscomb is a constant companion along the Cottonwood Wash Road. The Paria Box is a good place for an intimate look at the interior of this fold. There, a thrust fault confirms the fold's origins as a compressional structure.

I have to say I was a little underwhelmed by the Paria Box. If you only have time for one short hike in the area, I'd Recommend lower Hackberry.

There is an interesting side trip out of The Box though. A steep climb to the northern rim of The Box leads to the Hidden Cache. Here a hermit, or perhaps a German Spy according to some locals, lived in a couple of metal boxes and a cave back in the late 40s and early 50s. It's a fascinating bit of history and I highly recommend picking up Michael Kelsey's Hiking and Exploring the Paria River guidebook for more details if you plan to visit the area.





It was late afternoon by the time I had returned to my car after visiting the hidden cache. This left just enough time to get out to the mysteriouos Wahweap Hoodoos. Those photos are coming up next...
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